Ollisdal

Dawn breaks cold and silent here, just you and the stone walls of a mountain bothy tucked into the folds of Ollisdal, the kind of shelter that feels like a privilege to reach.

This is one for walkers who know what they're doing — the sort who carry everything in, tread lightly, and don't mind a bit of weather. There's a wilderness hut for those who want four walls and a roof, plus space for a tent if you prefer canvas. You'll need to be self-sufficient: no facilities listed, no tap by the door. Dogs are welcome by arrangement, so check before you set off. It's open all year, which means midwinter starscapes if you're brave, or long summer evenings when the light barely fades.

Campfires are allowed but ask on arrival — respect for the land matters in places like this. Expect solitude, the kind of peace that hums in your ears, and a night where your head torch is the only light for miles. Pack in, pack out, leave no trace. It's wild camping at its most honest.